Cross 2 Ross {Day 5: Big Beaver Camp to Ross Dam, HWY 20}

Joseph hits snooze on day 5 at Big Beaver Camp

[Continued from Day 4: Beaver Pass to Big Beaver on Ross Lake]

Our final morning in camp mirrored every other morning in camp, except that on this day we had a strict timeline in order to meet our driver at the rendezvous spot on Highway 20.  Various ailments plagued us, ranging from Judah's injured (splinted) finger, a strange growth/giant blister at the site of my wasp sting, Joseph's killer headache, and Tim's sore feet.

A sight for sore eyes bodies: Highway 20 in just 7 miles!

 Joseph and Caleb decided to hike out in sandals rather than bothering with hiking boots, which may or may not have been an option along other stretches of this 50 miler.  The rest of us laced up our boots and we all headed for home.

Who needs hiking boots?

Home-bound on day 5, hiking from Big Beaver Camp to Washington State Route 20 via Ross Dam

Although we were due to rendezvous, a few incredible view points along the last stretch of our trail begged for attention and called us to rest and take in the scenery.  As we passed several day hikers along the way, we felt encouraged knowing our destination neared.  Seeing a runner without even a bottle of water for the trail gave us a glimmer of finally finishing our 50 mile journey.

Ross Lake vista from the trail on day 5

Tim and me along the final stretch of the 50 mile trek, Ross Lake and Canada beyond

Regrouping and recouping on the Ross Dam with a lunch of summer sausage and dried fruit, we budgeted our remaining time to allow for a leisurely break.  Beautiful weather, spectacular views in all directions, and the dam itself a work to behold, our legs were rested and our imaginations captivated by the time we started hiking again.  Walking on concrete, though only for a short stretch, felt unfamiliar and harsh.

Lunch break atop Ross Dam

Looking down from Ross Dam to the Diablo below

Ross Dam from above

Peter, Bridget, Tim, Zachary and Joseph, pausing around mile 49 of 50, on our trek from Hannegan Pass to Ross Lake

Zachary pauses at the grave marker of Glen Harry Smith, buried in Ross Dam

 To the memory of Glen Harry Smith
Born March 31, 1885 Died September 10, 1939
Assistant Superintendent and one of the leaders of City Light. Associated with the City of Seattle Department of Lighting from June 13, 1909 to September 10, 1939.
Urn was placed in Ross Dam - Section 12 - Elevation 1327 - Midway between contraction joints eleven and twelve - Fifty feet from upstream face.
In grateful remembrance - by his associates

Closing in on the 50-miler finish line, the crew treks over Ross Dam.

Peter, Judah and Joseph peer over the edge of Ross Dam to the spillway below.

Follow the signs

With under a mile remaining on our 5 day excursion, we found ourselves walking in circles attempting to find the trail connecting Ross Dam with Highway 20.  Our map lacked the necessary detail for this final approach, and we wandered a bit aimlessly as a result.  Much to the horror of at least on (young) male on our crew, I simply flagged down a passing truck on the access road and asked for directions. Problem solved.  We turned around and headed in the right direction, only a short distance from the clearly marked trail we almost missed.

Following the dam portage/shuttle for canoeists, our crew treks out from the Ross Dam to Highway 20; one last mile.

The crowning climb on this trip involved one last grueling set of switchbacks, of the intense uphill variety.  The lads and gents wasted no time reaching the summit, but knowing that I could arrive well within the allotted pick-up zone without strenuous effort, I took the incline nice and easy.  With yet a fair stretch remaining, Enoch found me and offered to carry my pack to the parking lot, an offer I gladly accepted.  Relieved of my pack at a creek crossing, I let Enoch hike on ahead and dropped in to the icy water for a short, refreshing dip before resuming the ascent to the finish line.

Judah climbs the final sets of switchbacks on our short but steep climb to Hwy 20.

Within moments of our arrival at the parking area on Highway 20, Dr. H pulled in with a few coolers full of cold drinks and fresh fruit.  We tallied our wasp stings: 21; and our blisters: 5.  Sipping soft drinks and relaxing in the shade, we celebrated the moment and took our time making our way into the big maroon van for the 90 minute ride home.  An obligatory stop at Birdsview Burgers satisfied our cravings for sweets, then off we sped toward showers and civilization.
Mission accomplished.

Caleb with his dad, our driver for the ride home

Cold drinks and fresh fruit, a welcome out gift from our driver, Dr. H

Last stop: Birdsview Burgers for old fashioned milkshakes

Cross 2 Ross 2013: 
Complete.

Cross 2 Ross {Day 4: Beaver Pass to Big Beaver on Ross Lake}

Caleb's picture, featuring Zac and the old growth along Big Beaver Trail

[Continued from Day 3: Whatcom Camp to Beaver Pass]

Waking up in the pre-bug hours, we were all hoping to get outta dodge before the impending flying pestilence activation.  As crew leader, Joseph attempted to enlist his younger brother in an important camp chore at daybreak, "Peter, I have a very important task for you... are you ready?  Go wake up Zac!"  Apparently not up to the monumental challenge, Peter replied, "No, that's your job as crew chief."

Science of natural destruction

With 14 miles to log and Ross Lake waiting, we departed Beaver Pass Camp in bursts, bright and early as planned.  Some spirits higher than others, but each one of us set out determined to reach Ross Lake in time for an afternoon bath swim.  Our first unplanned stop along the route involved climbing over a downed tree and staying a while to study the scene of the fall.  It appeared that the cascading tree hit another with such force that it snapped in half, shattered and crashed to the ground in a "v" formation.  We saw hundreds of fallen and broken trees over the miles, but this one especially captured our attention with its powerful story sketched on the forest floor.

A close-up look at the impact zone; apparently the force of the fall cracked the giant tree in half

The ten mile section of trail along Big Beaver brought us into a wonderland of old growth trees, a few of which just couldn't be passed by without a visit.  The guys attempted to measure the base of one old growth cedar tree, and it topped out beyond the 35' mark.  The forest floor was littered with tiny brown and green toads.  Another wasp attack forced a first aid stop on a bridge to treat Judah's first and Caleb's 5th or 6th.  Only Enoch remained un-stung.

Just another trail-side attraction (near 39 Mile Camp)

Joseph on water filtration duty at lunch stop along Big Beaver Trail

Pure fun on the pier at Ross Lake's Beaver Pass Camp

The sight of Ross Lake gave us great joy, which we experienced in waves as the 14 mile hike took longer for some (me) that for others.  Judah selflessly added about an hour to his day's hike to double back and offer me a hand for the final stretch.  Although the guys assisted me on most approaches during the 50 miler, this one seemed especially meaningful, as Judah barely caught a glimpse of Ross Lake before turning around in a generous effort to be helpful.

Tim and me, captured by Zac from the pier at Beaver Pass Camp on Ross Lake

Ross Lake offered a refreshing, cleansing break from the ordinary day's end routine.  The tiny fish swarming around the pier nibbled on us as we swam.  A few in the massive school did not escape the clever fish catching contraptions rigged up by the boys and these unlucky ones were fried up for dessert.

Sunshine after a refreshing swim

Ross Lake: a fine reward after 42 miles and 4 days on the trails

Back at camp after his swim, Zachary noticed a small forest fire in the hills across the lake.  With Great Grandpa Tony's binoculars, he zoomed in on the site and studied the situation.  A fellow camper strolling along on a firewood gathering mission mentioned that the rangers were aware of the fire, and described it as a 'smoldering fire, not of concern to campers.'  Thankful for that bit of news, the fire still captured our attention, especially at dusk when its bright red flames could be seen illuminating the dark sky.

A smouldering forest fire burning away across Ross Lake from our campsite

Zac's bedroom at Big Beaver Camp

Another satisfying supper featuring freeze dried vittles was followed by the (optional) fish fry, and rounded out with fellowship around the campfire and a raspberry-crumble-fest.  Various antics employed to collect and haul firewood resulted in at least one minor injury, but the general mood around camp on this final night could best be described as joyful and pleasant.

Caleb and Joseph in the kitchen at Big Beaver Camp on Ross Lake

First dessert (optional)

Cross 2 Ross {Day 3: Whatcom Camp to Beaver Pass}

Morning exercise before hiking about 11 miles with 4000 (+/-) vertical gain/loss

[Continued from Day 2: Copper Creek to Whatcom Camp]

At daybreak on day 3 of our 50 mile trek through the North Cascades, I rolled out of the tent, slurped down a serving of runny oatmeal delicately seasoned with almonds, olive oil, raisins and brown sugar and licked the bowl clean.  I washed down my morning Ibuprofen dose with instant coffee, and quickly changed behind a cluster of trees from my warm, dry morning layers into the still damp hiking clothes from yesterdays' sweat and sprinkles.  Tim reminded me that it wouldn't be long before I might be wishing for the relief of cool, wet clothes, and he was right.

As miserable as this may sound, and with full disclosure that indeed, myriad discomforts followed our every mile, please understand that the spectacular environment, wonderful crew, solid prayer routine, and Ibuprofen all made this experience in the wilderness much more than bearable.  Rather tremendous, really.  Admittedly the weakest link in our crew, my repeat participation in this high adventure trek primarily hinged on the fact that the other Scouts' dads couldn't come due to work conflicts.  I joined the crew to fill the required second adult spot, knowing that my physical strength could not match that of the guys.  The guys regularly offered to carry some of my weight, and I humbly accepted their kind and chivalrous offers of assistance. 

11 push ups preceding an 11 mile day

In the pre-departure gathering after breaking camp at Whatcom Pass, someone suggested a loaded push-up competition as a warm up to the day's adventure.  Those who participated put up impressive double digit numbers, but to the untrained eye, these calisthenics resembled pure and simple insanity.

Challenger Glacier from the top of Whatcom Pass

Although anticipating many hours on the trail to Beaver Pass, the 360 degree views of Little Beaver Valley, Whatcom Peak, Mount Challenger and a close up view of Challenger Glacier were reason enough to pause and enjoy the scenery before setting out with full force.

Extreme descent down Whatcom Pass

Descending Whatcom Pass, we dropped some 2000 feet (+/-) in 3/8 mile.  The tight switchbacks were rocky and very steep, and the boisterous waterfalls cascading from the Pickets above to the valley below grew louder and louder as we dropped.  The crew hiked intentionally well spaced, to avoid kicked or loosened rocks from above colliding with heads below.  On high alert, Tim heard a dislodged rock bounding down, yelled "rock!" to warn the guys below and watched as it shot past him at eye level.

On alert for flying rocks

Switchbacks on Whatcom Pass

Grinding downhill course

Miles of bushwhacking along uncleared trails

From the phenomenal vistas atop Whatcom Pass and along the steep descent down to Little Beaver trail, we crossed a giant rock bowl and entered a very bushy series of trails.  The heavy dew sprinkled us thoroughly on this refreshingly moist morning jungle hike, as the roar of countless waterfalls serenaded our steps.

Crew break following Whatcom Pass descent

An avalanche area along Little Beaver Trail resembled a war zone when Zac and I trekked through on Zac's second "X2R" (Cross 2 Ross) in 2008.  Downed trees and debris nearly completely obscured the trail in '08, but pink tape marked the general direction of travel to aid hikers.  Evidence of that massive slide still remains along the sides of the trails today, but the route is clear save the occasional downed tree awaiting removal by forest crews.

Caleb, at rest

Stream crossing with care on a slightly broken bridge

Water filtration and sock laundering stop along Little Beaver Creek, near Stillwell Camp

Bros on a bridge (over Little Beaver Creek)

The final section of day 3's journey to Beaver Camp included climbing 1500 feet (+/-) in about a mile, with swarming flies for company.  Warned by friendly hikers coming down from Beaver Pass about the extreme flies and wasps above didn't exactly elevate our hopes for a nice evening at camp.  Sure enough, the place was literally humming with all the insect infestation.  Head nets on, the guys set right to work building a fire in hopes that a smoke screen might deter some of the flying predators from feasting on us.  Not much measurable success in bug repellant efforts could be found with natural or chemical strategies, but there was an entertainment value in the desperation and hyper reaction to the ever present, aggressive flying force.

Enoch and Peter on fire duty at Beaver Pass Camp

Memorable quotes from Beaver Camp:
"I'm kinda creeped out by the wasp that's eating flies off Peter's back!"
"If the swarm comes, we're in trouble!"
"We should interconnect our tents and play cards."

Cross 2 Ross '13 {Day 2: Copper Creek to Whatcom Camp}

Day 2 departure for an 11 mile trek to Whatcom Camp from the rocky shores of Copper Creek

[Continued from Day 1: Hannegan Pass to Copper Creek]

 

Day 2 began with an early wake up call at 6AM, but one devout Scout arose each morning half an hour earlier than the crew for quiet prayer, an inspiration to all of us and surely a link to great aid and grace from above in our daily trials.  Community prayer before our daily departures and grace before meals punctuated our daily routine, and we enjoyed ample opportunity for prayer and meditation during the day-long treks.  With the grandeur of creation all around us, our thoughts turned to God quite naturally along the way; severe physical challenges also brought a desire to seek help from above.  Knowing that many at home were lifting us in prayer gave me great solace in trials and extra endurance to push through the pain.

Joseph, Caleb and Peter enjoy a second (or third?) round trip crossing of the Chilliwack River aboard the cable car.

Our second day on the long trail toward Ross Lake offered a recess of sorts.  After a short and relatively easy three mile hike we reached the cable car crossing of the Chilliwack River.  A ladder's climb to the take-off spot required careful negotiation with loaded packs and hiking poles.  Team effort allowed for the safe crossing of all our crew, our gear and a few extra round trips just for the fun of it.  Extra long stops at the center point offered those of us without height phobias to extend our view enjoyment and relax in something resembling a chair for a few extra minutes.  Bouncing was highly discouraged, but oh-so tempting for some lofty travelers.

Peter, powering the cable car over the Chilliwack River with his dad as the sole passenger.

Cable car passenger, treated to a long view-stop right in the middle of the expanse.

Science in motion

Without time constraints, some of us could have spent hours at the cable car crossing.

Joy riding high above the river, hoping to spot spawning salmon (which hadn't reached this area just yet).

Peter and Joseph ~ happy repeat customers

Perhaps a view of Whatcom Glacier through the clouds

A calculated move to reach Whatcom Camp on day 2 rather than stopping at the lower elevation Graybeal Camp meant that a ridiculously strenuous climb to reach Whatcom came in the final miles at the end of a long day's trek.  Another ground wasp attack left Zachary with 3 hits below the knee and subsequently, those of us in the caboose 'sprinted' up a set of three switchbacks to avoid further injuries.  Zachary doubled back to carry my pack on the breakneck uphill race to beat the wasps.  Successfully avoiding a second onslaught, we stopped to administer first aid to Zac's stings on along steep trail in a light mist.

Tim navigates through a giant slide site, attempting to stay on the 'trail'

The final miles of uphill trudging into camp seemed to take forever; the trail endless and brutally steep.  We nearly unanimously recall this particular section of the 50 miles as the most difficult of all.
Reports of high bear activity were confirmed within minutes of our arrival when Enoch met a couple at the water hole who indicated that a bear had been spotted in our campsite a few hours earlier.  A good place for bears to visit indeed, as the blueberries were bountiful.  We kept a clean camp, and took extra precautions with hanging our food and scented stuff before dusk.

First aid stop for sting relief on the steep Brush Creek Trail leading to Whatcom Camp.

Zachary sets up the kitchen, perched under Noah's Tarp at Whatcom Camp.

Judah, Enoch, and Peter set up camp at a rainy Whatcom Camp.

Judah, Enoch, Tim and Peter work together to hang the food out of bears' reach at Whatcom Camp.

About 40-50 pounds of crew food, hanging safely out of bears' reach for the night

Forgetting the strenuous day's journey, a few Scouts ventured out after dinner for an evening stroll to find a nearby lake armed with map, compass and camera.  The lake remained elusive, but the hikers found plenty of extra adventure and sweeping views from lofty heights at nearly sundown.  By the time we called it quits, the moon offered tremendous illumination over Whatcom Peak across the way from camp.  Outrageous beauty, well worth the cost of such a difficult end-of-the-day ascent to camp.

Can you spot Joseph in red and Caleb in orange on their evening stroll?

Peter and Enoch enjoy the evening's entertainment: watching Joseph and Caleb scamper on the rock face.