Italy Day 9 {Assisi}

Peter's rash covered skin, shown to the pharmacist for help with medication

April Fools Day in Assisi, and Joseph started things off by pouring laundry soap into the bath tub before Peter's bath.  Perhaps that had something to do with the terrible rash that broke out all over Peter's body?  We found a Farmacia and asked with sign language (pointing to Peter's rash and scratching ourselves like monkeys) for a cure.  Maybe the pharmacist spoke English, but better safe than sorry!  He sold us a little tablet, and told Peter to take half a tablet every 12 hours.  Shortly thereafter the rash disappeared and hasn't returned.

Secluded olive grove at St. Anthony's Guesthouse, Assisi

Digging in!

Picnicking in a shady olive grove overlooking St. Clair's Basilica, we felt right at home at St. Anthony's guest house.  Our fishy Friday meant we sampled thinly sliced salmon (cured?) with our sandwiches.  The butchers, a father an son duo, so very helpful at the local shop, even sliced our bread and cheese.  Fresh fruits and assorted juices rounded out the simple meal.

High energy and over active imaginations fueled the steep climb up to the Rocca Maggiore castle at the top of Assisi.  A typical example of medieval military architecture, the castle had many corridors, spiral staircases, look-out towers and cells.  We also found the chapel where Mass would have been offered.
A highlight involved passing through a narrow (about a body and half width), low ceiling (under 6 feet high) and almost completely dark the entire 100 yard length.  The boys charged through, running and yelling, "For Narnia!"

In the polygonal tower at the top of the castle, we enjoyed sweeping views of Assisi and the entire Umbrian countryside;  commanding vistas, on a beautiful sunny day.  The opportunity to rest in the sun was tempting for Tim and me, but the boys were far too intrigued with the countless possibilities such a position would hold in battle.  Overheard during my short siesta, "I would pay you e100 (100 Euros) if you managed to pee on a coconut bouncing down from here!"

Friar Fabio with the boys outside St. Damien, Assisi

Stopping for gelatto after our descent from the castle, we forged on another 2k straight downhill out of Assisi proper to St. Damien Church, where St. Francis heard Jesus speaking to him from the cross, "Repair my Church."  A friendly friar, Fabio, visited with us in the courtyard after our self guided tour.  Fabio heard his call to the priesthood at St. Damien at age 17, and now has two more years of formation before his ordination.  In parting, he promised to pray for our family, and we for him.  Attending another daily Mass (for First Friday!) at St. Rufino, plus visits to St. Clair, St. Mary Major, and a small chapel at St. Joseph Benedictine Monastery made this a day to remember.

Noteworthy:

• From the top of a castle, the male dominated conversation will naturally turn to how cool it would be to throw things off (coconuts, watermelons, bowling balls, pee, spit).
• Probably best to know what you're ordering for dinner (even if the waitress is rude and rushed).
• Truffle pizza is edible with enough water (snuck into the restaurant in water bottles) but eggplant ____ (something) is just barely palatable.  Maybe better to just stick with cheese pizza on future Fridays!

Italy Day 8 {Reaching Assisi}

Loading up the rental car before we depart Rome for Assisi

Driving in Rome can be terrifying, exhilarating, frustrating and nearly impossible all at once. We had been warned (and have seen first hand) about the road hazards and had hoped to avoid driving if possible but for convenience and budget reasons, we took to the open roads in a little rental car. Our mission: get to Assisi. The challenge: getting out of Rome. Tim really proved his urban skills on this mission. With his faithful navigator (me) and his worthy passengers (the boys) he successfully reached the GRA (freeway) and even found a gas station with diesel (just adding to the excitement, the car was rented to us with 1/4 tank).

Entering the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi; our first stop in Assisi

A wrong turn isn't really a wrong turn if you can still head in the general direction you need to go. Glad to be off the A1 (super mega toll highway) but detoured by the windy country roads, we made our way to Assisi in a round-a-bout manner. Finding the tremendous city on a hill in the Umbrian country side was both a relief and a very exciting time. We parked the car and immediately climbed the steep hills to visit the Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, built in the 1200's. Tremendous beauty; such an amazing worship space. Throngs of school children arrived at about the same time, so we were a bit crowded in some spaces.

View from our bedroom window at St. Anthony's Guest House, Assisi, Italy

St. Rufino, Assisi

Driving the narrow convoluted streets of Assisi made Rome driving seem simple! Without an address for our B&B, we took to hunt and peck behind the wheel in the hopes of finding it. By God's grace we landed right at the front gate of St. Anthony's Guesthouse, and our hosts welcomed us with great hospitality (though very little English). The window of our room looked directly out at St. Clair's steeple and beyond. Tranquility quickly replaced the stress from our day of driving, and we walked five minutes to St. Rufino's for 6PM Mass.

Wild boar on the menu at dinner, we visited an overpriced but decent restaurant after Mass. The waitress wasn't going to admit she spoke English, until Tim asked, "Do you speak English?" and she admitted that she did. Still having difficulty paying outrageous prices for tap water, we allowed Peter to slip into the bathroom to fill up his cup a few times. Raising rebels, I know. Dehydration can cause disruption in normal parenting techniques...

Checking out posted menus for prices and selections is all part of the dinner time routine.

Waiting for water...

Noteworthy:

• Gas station to-go sandwiches here are better than most we make at home.
• Being jammed into a compact car for several hours on windy roads gives us a new appreciation for our comfortable transportation at home.
• I've filled an 8G memory stick already with photos and videos; not quite one week into our trip!