Italy Day 20 {San Marino; Padua}

Singing at the pub in San Marino

Tim and the boys planned a side trip to visit San Marino, another tiny country perched atop a hill in Italy.  The primary purpose of this detour: to have their passports stamped.  Twenty minutes of hairpin turns up a steep hill brought us to the little country, and we arrived during afternoon rest (reposa).  With sweeping views of the Italian country side below and the acapella choir of happy gentlemen gathered an at the pub for fellowship and refreshments during the afternoon break, San Marino welcomed us.  Most predominantly visible in San Marino: tourist shop after tourist shop; selling postcards, trinkets, perfume and guns.  The narrow streets were packed with pedestrians, and we wound our way up the steep hills to the tourism office.  For 5 Euros each, Joseph and Peter's passports were stamped; mission accomplished. 

Bridget, Joseph and Peter atop San Marino

Tim, Joseph and Peter at a square in San Marino

Already a 250+ mile day, our drive to Padua was lengthened not only by our detour to San Marino, but also by a poor road choice and the need to double back and re-enter the roaring Autostrade.   With the added miles and travel time, our arrival into Padua coincided with evening rush hour and dinner time.  We unknowingly entered a few "no traffic zone" pedestrian-only streets (in some Italian cities traffic cameras capture offenders, who receive expensive fines via the mail).  Frustrated, tired and hungry, we finally opted to temporarily abandon the vehicle and continue our hotel search on foot.  Fortunately we located a decent hotel after a short walk, and after re-parking the car and hauling our gear to the room, set off into Padua for dinner.  After pizza and pasta (and more expensive water), a good night's sleep was top on the agenda, to get an early start on our next-day trip to Venice.

Cars and pedestrians share the very narrow, steep streets lined with tourist shops and government buildings in San Marino.

Peter and Joseph watch as their passports are stamped in the tiny country of San Marino.

Noteworthy: 

• Gas prices are right around $8 gallon.
• One wrong turn can end up being very expensive.
• Our stops to re-fuel the vehicle always include a short break for cappuccinos, served by baristas/gas station cashiers in the markets at the gas stations (where mixed drinks are also served).

Italy Day 19 {Loreto}

View of the basilica from our balcony at the Hotel Loreto

Moon over Hotel Loreto, from our balcony

Outside view of the marble chapel encasing the Santa Casa in Loreto

 Following in the footsteps of many holy men and women, (including our friend, Paul, from Sacred Heart who loaned us the book, "Catholic Shrines of Western Europe," which guided many of our stops along our Italian pilgrimage), we visited the Holy House in Loreto.   St. Therese of Lisieux made a momentous pilgrimage to Loreto before entering the Carmelites (described at length in her autobiography); St. Alphonsus Liguori, St. Frances Cabrini, Blessed John Henry Newman, St. John Neumann, and St. Francis de Sales also made pilgrimages to this holy site.  Our friend from San Giovanni Rotondo, Father Michael Pio, having lived there as a Capuccin priest, sent detailed descriptions of some of the artwork in the basilica, the times of the friars' prayers in the Church, and notes about the Holy House:

"...there are inscriptions by the first Judeo-Christians who visited the Holy House when it was still a part of the original dwelling of the Holy Family in Nazareth. There is notably one which combines Greek and Hebrew signs and means "O Jesus Christ, Son of God". It is matched by an identical invocation which is still to be found in a grotto in Nazareth close to the Grotto of the Annunciation." 

Dozens of priests sat in the various side chapels and in the old fashioned wooden box confessionals offering the healing sacrament of reconciliation (confession).  So many people were lined up, by languages (posted on each station) in order to be freed from sin in this special sacrament.   The feeling of repentance and healing in this holy place was both overpowering and inspiring.   Inside the Holy House, prayers, petitions, thanksgiving and praise were offered up to our Lord through our advocate and Blessed Mother, Mary.   A hushed silence filled the Holy House even as it was completely packed with pilgrims of every age, from all over the world.

Peter and Joseph play competitive coin rolling games at the fountain in the square at the basilica in Loreto.

Angels and saints and unbelievable beauty on the ceiling at the basilica in Loreto

A patron saint looks down from above.

Noteworthy:

• I forgot to mention that Tim was able to repair the damaged camera (on day 2 or 3)!
• The AA battery camera, previously used by Peter (on the days he had finger injuries from all the shutter action) burns through batteries at a rate we could not have foreseen, and has thus been retired for the time being. 

• We are continually entertained by the different methods used by the Italian police to keep order, including using little hand-held stop signs to pull over cars in traffic.

Italy Day 18 {Lanciano}

Then many of his disciples who were listening said,

"This saying is hard; who can accept it?"

Since Jesus knew that his disciples were murmuring about this, he said to them,

"Does this shock you?" 

 -John 6:60-61

The 8th century Eucharistic Miracle of Lanciano, depicted in stained glass

Our view from the Adoration Chapel inside St. Francis Church (San Francesco, 1258), built over a pre-existing 7th century church.

Eucharistic Miracle of Lanciano

To adore Jesus' Real Presence in Flesh and Blood, we drove from Vieste to Lanciano, home of a Eucharistic Miracle from the 8th century. Doubts about Jesus' Real Presence in the Eucharist began at the very moment He said, "Amen, amen, I say to you, unless you eat the flesh of the Son of Man and drink his blood, you do not have life within you. Whoever eats my flesh and drinks my blood has eternal life, and I will raise him on the last day. For my flesh is true food, and my blood is true drink. Whoever eats my flesh and drinks my blood remains in me and I in him." (John 6: 53-56)
An 8th century priest holding the Blessed Sacrament at the consecration, doubted whether or not it was really Jesus' flesh and blood. He suddenly found himself holding flesh and blood (later scientific studies have confirmed the type of tissue as heart muscle; the blood types of the flesh and blood is a match). 
 
We were somewhat shocked at the sheer number of visitors waiting to enter St. Francis Church in Lanciano, re-opening at 3PM after reposa.  Being a Sunday, the crowds at this pilgrimage site even in the "low" season were vast.  Not expecting to have a very intimate experience among such a throng of pilgrims, we entered the Church, and to our amazement found most were seated in the congregation, as if for Mass, listening to an Italian lecture (probably a teaching about the Eucharistic Miracle).   We entered a chapel in the back of the Church, and in private silence adored the Precious Body and Blood of our Lord; True Flesh and True Blood, incorrupt since the 700's!  Like a miracle at the miracle, we were blessed with a private viewing and found the silence for prayer and adoration awesome, especially considering what we had expected would be a crowded and less-than-intimate experience.

We believe that at every Holy Communion, at every Mass, we encounter the True Presence of Christ, given to us as the Bread of Angels; supernatural nutrition for our journey on Earth. Adoring the Eucharistic Miracle in Lanciano helped us to grow closer to Christ and deepen our faith as a family, and we will forever remember this divine encounter on our pilgrimage.

Noteworthy:

Olives for sale at the street fair in Lanciano, which we visited during reposa.

An interesting billboard in Lanciano

Italy Day 17 {Vieste on the Adriatic Sea}

Splashing toward shore, Peter and Joseph cool off in the  Adriatic Sea.

With the cliffs of Vieste behind him, Joseph builds sand mounds on the beach.

Drivers doing donuts on the sandy beach; our first glimpse of Vieste.

Fresh seafood and a room with a view awaited us in the seaside town of Vieste, along the shores of the Adriatic Sea in south eastern Italy.  A planned destination for rest and relaxation, Vieste delivered on both and then some. The quaint cliff-side town sprouted up from the sea shore like a barnacle, and since we arrived at the end of "low" season, the miles of beachfront hotel properties leading into town were still boarded up.  Odd to pass through the likes of a ghost town along such an amazing stretch of sandy beach on a gorgeous Friday evening!  A bustling social scene filled the streets of the center of Vieste, making our initial approach and search for a hotel somewhat challenging.  After a few unsuccessful laps around the town we found the first beach-front hotel open and inviting, as well as reasonably priced.  Our new home on the beach had a balcony with sweeping views (plus a much needed laundry line) and a breakfast offering cold cereal, a craved item.

Posing for the junior photographer at a viewpoint outside Vieste

More posing, more amazing views near Vieste along the shores of the Adriatic Sea in Italy

Altar and tabernacle at San Croce, Vieste, Italy

Barefoot on the sandy beach, we played in the (cold) Adriatic Sea and relaxed in the sun.  Finding sunscreen in the "off" season required great effort, and eventually great expense ($20US).  Hard to believe a few of us managed to get sunburned despite our "being prepared" for our day at the beach!  The sand claimed half of each boys' sandwich, and was found spilling out from our pockets for many days after our Vieste stop.  Sadly, the amount of litter on the beach was shocking.  We wondered if maybe in the "high season" the efforts at beach clean-up are better.

Vieste at night; glimpsed from an alley on our walk from Mass at San Croce to dinner.

The remains of a fish soup shared by Joseph and Tim for dinner.

Vieste at 21:41 (9:41PM); the temperature reads 21 degrees Celsius (69.8 degrees Fahrenheit).

Carried into the restaurant's kitchen in an old bucket by a man in his 70's, the night's catch soon landed on the table in the form of an exotic looking soup.  Heads, tails, fins, shells; simmered together and served in a delicious, spicy tomato broth to the brave eaters at our table (Tim and Joseph).  Also served up (without being ordered) were what we mistakenly assumed were free extras: cold water and fresh bruschetta!  When the check arrived at the end of our meal, however, we realized that these offerings were actually charged to our tab at a cost of about $18US.  Laughing about how anxious we were of the Italian "pickpockets" we realized that consistently it's the restaurants that seem to be picking our pockets.  Cover charges are common at most places we've dined, and run about $3-5US per person just to sit down, water's not included. 

Noteworthy:

• Do feel suspicious if your 13 year old son, otherwise not very interested in (or perhaps averse to) photography offers to take a group photo on the balcony one sunny morning.
• It's your own fault if said photographer laughs and locks the door after the suspects, including you are in position.
• Do expect the joke to end quickly once the fun's been had and you've requested to be let back into the room.

Locked out!  And we thought Joseph was just being kind in offering to take our photo on the balcony!  Little did we know he'd been plotting... this boy really misses his play time!

He Is Risen!

Alleluia!

Jesus is Risen!

Peter and Joseph as thurifer/boat bearer 

lead the recessional after the Easter Vigil at Sacred Heart Catholic Church, Bellingham, WA

After 11AM Mass on Easter Sunday, Father Qui Thac leads Michael and Selloane and family as they praise God for an anonymous parishioner's $50,000 gift to their family. 

As Acolyte/thurifer, Zachary leads the recession on Easter Sunday following the 11AM Mass; closely behind are Peter and Nolan as a candle bearers and Joseph as cross bearer, and our beloved pastor, Father Qui Thac, who brings us Jesus in the Blessed Sacrament!

Good Friday

Reflections

 for this solemn day on which we recall

our Savior's Passion and death on the cross

for our salvation:

Via Crucis: The Way of the Cross

Station XII: Jesus Dies on the Cross

The culmination of evil and the eternal victory of Goodness coincide!  He died for us, that we might live!  Every true good, every true love, every true life springs forth from this most blasphemous and most sacred moment.  He has reconciled everything!  Cloud and darkness are his raiment, his throne justice and right (cf. PS 97:2). There is no contradiction in God.  He is Peace.

Station XIII: Jesus Is Taken from the Cross

 This dead body is our handiwork. This is what we are capable of doing... We are those for whom Jesus died.  He died so that when we repent and seek forgiveness, the well of his mercy will always be open and full... How many friendships have ended because one who has betrayed will not forgive himself and so will not allow the other to forgive him?  This is the story of Judas.  Let us rather follow Peter.  He is absent from the way of the cross, but he leads the Church in the way of repentance.  Peter's life and preaching feed us by witnessing to Christ's infinite mercy.

Station XIV: Jesus Is Laid in the Tomb

In the Genesis of salvation history, God foreshadows the promises of Christ by bringing forth life from a barren womb.  Sarah gives birth to Isaac who bears the wood up the mountain.  In the fullness of time the virgin womb of Mary gives birth to Jesus Christ who bears the wood up to Calvary.  When it is finished, Christ is placed in a virgin tomb.  Three days later, at the pinnacle of salvation history, this barren tomb will bear witness to the promise of promises.

Majesty of God, behold the effects of unspeakable charity!  Look at your dear child's mangled body.  Examine those innocent hands from which flows sacred blood, and, once appeased, forgive the crimes which my hands have committed!  Look at this defenseless side, pierced by a cruel sword; rejuvenate me in the flow of the holy fountain, which, I believe, has gushed forth from him...
Merciful Father, why do you not look at the head of this most beloved young son, at the drooping neck, at this unusual death, and abandonment? O Gentle One, who produced us, consider the humanity of this beloved creature, and have pity on the weakness of all created flesh!  His bare chest is white; his torn side is red; his dessicated insides burn! The royal face is livid! The arms are completely stiff; his sturdy legs are left hanging; and from his pierced feet flows a wave of sacred blood! Oh! look at your Son's body, all torn, and them remember, O glorious Father, of what nature I am.  - Father John of Fecamp (+1078)

Good Friday Stations of the Cross reflections from Magnificat written by Fr.Richard Veras



Italy Day 16 {San Giovanni Rotondo Cemetery, Monte St. Angelo}

Cemetery at San Giovanni Rotondo

Father Michael Pio translates the inscription on St. Pio's father's tomb stone.

Departing San Giovanni Rotondo was unlike any other departure on our pilgrimage.  We were not only leaving another little Italian town we had briefly explored and enjoyed; we were leaving a dearly loved new friend, Father Michael Pio, who had become like a family member to us in the hours we spent visiting.  After checking out of the Villa San Pietro, we departed together for the San Giovanni Rotondo Cemetery on the outskirts of town.  Father Michael Pio gave us a guided tour of the cemetery, beginning at the Capuchin Chapel in which are buried St. Pio's parents, brother, and sister; his spiritual daughter and Third Order Franciscan Adelia Maria Pyle; his superior, Padre Pellegrino Funicelli, and others closely tied to St. Pio.  Remarkably, while we were standing at the gated entrance to the chapel, a grounds keeper came along and offered to open the building for us.  Once inside Father expressed his amazement, explaining that in all the times he had visited this site, it had never been opened.  We were once again in awe of God's grace!  Father taught us about the lives of the holy men and women interned there and translated the crypts.  We prayed.

Father Michael Pio's mother's grave, which he visited daily, was housed in a crypt for fourth order Fransiscans.  We stopped there to pray together for the repose of her soul, and for the souls buried there.  We also visited the new Capuchin Crypt at the cemetery and Father shared personal stories and memories, and prayers for the Capuchins buried there.  Our departure followed, and Father stayed behind at the cemetery to pray.  With hugs, blessings and very fond memories we left San Giovanni Rotondo and our dear Father Michael Pio.

Picnic lunch at the Castle in Monte St. Angelo, which we only explored from the outside, as it was reposa.

In the year 490AD, St. Michael the Archangel consecrated a cave in the hills of the province of Foggia, which has been a holy place of worship and a destination for Christian pilgrims since the middle ages. In the town of Monte St. Angelo, and known as the 'celestial basilica,' this shrine dedicated to our patron St. Michael the Archangel, has been visited by some of our other patron saints, including St. Bridget and St. Thomas Aquinas, as well as many popes and St. Francis of Assisi.  An awe inspiring place, the cave is now a part of a beautifully decorated Church, many feet underground.  No photography allowed, we spent our time in prayer both at the cave and in the Blessed Sacrament Chapel.  On display in the museum were dozens dozens of "thank you" cards to St. Michael the Archangel for his protection and prayers for many in need. 

PRAYER TO

SAINT MICHAEL
THE ARCHANGEL

St. Michael the Archangel,
defend us in battle.
Be our defense against the wickedness and snares of the Devil.
May God rebuke him, we humbly pray,
and do thou,
O Prince of the heavenly hosts,
by the power of God,
thrust into hell Satan,
and all the evil spirits,
who prowl about the world
seeking the ruin of souls. Amen.

Art work given in gratitude to St. Michael the Archangel.

Noteworthy:

• Many Italian cemeteries have florists (up to 3 vendors) on site at the entrance.
• Many Italian grave sites are decorated with fresh flowers and regularly visited.
• I was always fascinated with cemeteries when Tim needed help navigating; I had to shield my eyes in order to stay focused on the task of map reading and not get distracted by cemeteries!  At least one wrong turn a direct result of cemetery fascination.